Category: Sks firing pin sticking

Sks firing pin sticking

Brownnesll, Inc. YouTube channel can be found Hereand the video I will be specifically referencing can be found Here. Attach the SKS Stock to the Barrel Assembly — With the receiver and barrel assembly upside down sites are resting on the table, or supported on blocksalign the stock with the barrel assembly, starting from the stock ferrule.

Depending on the condition of your rifle, you may need to apply a little pressure to have the magazine sit properly. Attaching the SKS Trigger Assembly to the Stock — Insert the trigger assembly into the stock by leading with the front of the trigger assembly, and being sure that the pin recesses properly into the magazine assembly.

The trigger assembly is what holds the magazine to the stock. You will need to have the magazine cover open, and depending on the condition of your rifle, you may need to wiggle the magazine, trigger, and barrel assembly to get the trigger to sit properly with the magazine. The safety needs to be flipped up, and not inline with the trigger. Depending on the condition of your rifle, you may need to apply significant pressure to the assembly to get it to seat properly.

In some cases, a rubber mallet can be used. Failure to ensure properly alignment, or that the safety is on, could damage your rifle if too much pressure is applied. Note, if you have a bayonet, you will need to extend the bayonet 90 degrees. Ensure the cleaning rod is put through both the bayonet holder as well as into the stock. If you have a bayonet, rotate and lock the bayonet back into its holder once the cleaning rod has been installed.

Take the piston extension and insert it into the holder, starting with the spring. Re-Attach the SKS Gas Piston — Take the gas cylinder and insert the piston small end first until it is completely through the gas cylinder. Note — The next 4 steps are for reassembling the bolt, if your bolt is already assembled, proceed to step If you only see the firing pin sticking out one side of the bolt, the firing pin is inserted backwards.

The retainer pin will only fit one way though the bolt, and may require the use of a hammer or mallet to push the pin through.

If you are having difficulty re-inserting the retainer pin, verify that the firing pin is properly aligned before using a hammer or mallet. Re-assemble the Bolt and Bolt Carrier — With the bolt assembled, align the bolt with the carrier, and insert the two pieces into the back of the rear of the receiver.

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You will need to apply a bit of pressure down on the bolt and carrier, then slide the carrier forward. You will either need to open the magazine, or apply pressure to the magazine follower inside the receiver to allow the bolt carrier to slide forward. Be sure to insert the open end first the part of the spring that is wavy into the carrier, with the straight spring section towards the back of the rifle. You will need to apply a bit of pressure against the bolt spring to get the receiver cover to align and sit properly.

Once the receiver cover is properly aligned, push the take-down lever through the receiver cover, and rotate the lever forward into its locked position. At this point, your rifle is now assembled. You are commenting using your WordPress.Log in or Sign up.

Oct 12, 1. Okay, for the benefit of those who don't feel like reading and sifting through my entire ridiculously long post, here's the bare-bones of it: 1. Any ideas on getting cosmoline out of nooks and crannies of Yugo SKS? How the hell do I get the stock off? Most importantly, why can't I remove the big screw through the side of the stock?

Do I just need more muscle, or is there some trick to it? How do I remove the firing pin, and the extractor? There appears to be a pin through the bolt, but I couldn't get it to move. How does the bayonet come off? There is a screw through the base of it, but it won't budge either. I want to clean the cosmo out of the locking sleeve. How do I remove the trigger group? I assume I'll have to remove the stock first see 1but I figured I'll ask now, as long as I'm already askiing all this other stuff.

If anyone can answer any or all of these questions, I'd be obliged. And I'd rather not take it to a gunsmith, unless it's something that really NEEDS to be done with specialized tools, or a drill press or something like that.

Now, if you care to read the rest of it feel free, but I'm going to have to learn to write my posts a bit shorter in the future! I'm sure you know what I mean! Wonderful, right? I've been reading up on all the many, many different things that supposedly work to remove the stuff, but I'm still not sure how I'm going to get it all out of some of the smaller nooks and crannies!

What I need to know, since I've tried and failed already, is how the hell to take the thing completely down.The right picture is a cutaway SKS bolt, showing vividly the firing pin taper, and the taper in the bottom of hole in the bolt, that firing pin bottoms against.

This was when many reports of slam-fire and uncontrollable full-auto episodes were first being reported.

SKS Reassembly Procedure

Even pre versions. But, with pre versions you need a different spring. This new firing pin eliminates slam-fire and uncontrollable full-auto incidents! Item is a Drop-In fit with no alterations required. Even with the modification, you could still go back to an original FP. Canadians can click the Buy Now button above and order from us or go here:.

ATF approved. This is a picture of a Yugo Carrier, before and after modification. Both the Bolt and Carrier come back to you ready to drop in and shoot. This includes FP kit and installation. We disassemble, clean, stone bolt face lightly and countersink FP hole, polish extractor face, and reassemble with new FP kit. Once you receive your bolt assembly, it will be ready to just drop into your rifle then shoot.

We also return your original firing pin. Click for Mail-In Form. If work is requested that is not on the mail-in form, turnaround can be affected. Make your SKS safer and more reliable! Buy Now.All rights reserved skscarbine. The SKS has a conventional layoutwith a wooden stock and rifle grip. It is a gas-operated rifle that has a spring-loaded bolt carrier and a gas piston rod that work to unlock and cycle the action via gas pressure exerting pressure against them.

The bolt is locked to contain the pressure of ignition at the moment of firing by tilting downwards at its rear and being held by a lug pressed into the receiver. At the moment of firing, the bolt carrier is pushed rearwards, which causes it to lift the bolt, unlocking it, and allowing it to be carried rearwards against a spring. This allows the fired case to be ejected and a new round from the magazine to be carried into the chamber.

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The SKS represents an intermediate step in the process towards the development of true assault rifles, being shorter and less powerful than the semi-automatic rifles that preceded it, such as the Soviet SVT, but being longer 10 cm or 4in than AK-series rifles which replaced it. As a result, it has a slightly higher muzzle velocity than those arms that replaced it. The SKS's ten-round internal box magazine can be loaded either by hand or from a stripper clip.

Cartridges stored in the magazine can be removed by pulling back on a latch located forward of the trigger guard thus opening the "floor" of the magazine and allowing the rounds to fall out.

In typical military use the stripper clips are disposable. If necessary they can be reloaded multiple times and reused. The SKS is easily field stripped and reassembled without specialized tools and the trigger group and magazine can be removed with an unfired cartridge. The rifle has a cleaning kit stored in a trapdoor in the buttstock, with a cleaning rod running under the barrel, in the same style as the AK In common with some other Soviet-era designs, it trades some accuracy for ruggedness, reliability, ease of maintenance, ease of use, and low manufacturing cost.

While early Soviet models had spring-loaded firing pinswhich held the pin away from cartridge primers until struck by the action's hammer, most variants of the SKS have a free floating firing pin within the bolt. Because of this design, care must be taken during cleaning especially after long storage packed in Cosmoline to ensure that the firing pin can freely move and does not stick in the forward position within the bolt.

SKS firing pins that are stuck in the forward position have been known to cause accidental "slamfires" the rifle firing on its own, without pulling the trigger and often without being fully locked. This behavior is less likely with the hard primer military-spec ammo for which the SKS was designed, but as with any rifle, users should properly maintain their firearms.

For collectors, slamfires are more likely when the bolt still has remnants of Cosmoline embedded in it that retard firing pin movement. As it is triangular in cross section with only one way to properly insert it notches upslamfires can also result if the firing pin is inserted in one of the other two orientations. In most variants Yugoslav models being the most notable exceptionthe barrel is chrome-lined for increased wear and heat tolerance from sustained fire and to resist corrosion from chlorate-primed corrosive ammunition, as well as to facilitate cleaning.

Chrome bore lining is common in military rifles.

SKS bolt/stock/firing pin, cosmo removal...YAY!!!

Although it can diminish accuracy, its effect on practical accuracy in a rifle of this type is limited. Safety Tips Using Your SKS Military surplus shooters and fans of modern commercial firearms are now more than ever taking note of Sergei Gavrilovich Simonov's invention that first came out in When it arrived it had so much cosmoline on it that it wasn't recognizable as a rifle. My first step was unpack it wipe as much cosmoline off as possible and immerse it in mineral spirits to soak for a week.

Brought it out and wiped it down and immersed it in simplegreen and hot water. I'm worried. The firing pin is stuck tight in the bolt and nothing seems to be able to loosen it.

sks firing pin sticking

Any ideas from you guys? I'm new to SKS and will really appreciate any help. I boiled mine for about an hour. A lot of cosmoline came out.

SKS Firing Pin Sticks Forward

The firing pin moved freely after that. Shoot some brake cleaner in there. Just watch your eyes. If none of this works, better take it apart to look for foreign matter. Such as metal from a pierced primer, etc. So how difficult is taking the bolt apart. The bolt isn't all that hard to disassemble. You also need to take special care to NOT bend or break the extractor spring in the process. You should be able to find a number of You Tube videos that will show you how.

If you don't want to take the bolt apart you can send it to Murray's.

sks firing pin sticking

Google Murray's Gunsmithing. If you can do the Mosin bolt, the SKS bolt is a dream. The extractor retaining pin doubles the firing pin. That's all there is too it. With the SKS and it's floating pin, I'd insist on disassembly and none of this boiling it out process. Oh, inspect that firing pin I took my M59 bolt apart i got from samco a few years back durring cleaning. Its not a real big deal to do. It is very important that the fireing pin be free floating. I do have a friend i shoot with at the range and his was stuck.Gradual, straight taper design with Wolff brand spring prevents mechanical lockup in the bolt and ensures consistent firing pin return after every shot; plus, allows the use of soft-primered American ammunition and reloads.

Not for use in pre Russian models with shallower firing pin hole. Includes spare firing pin spring and instructions.

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Fits post Russian SKS and clones. Please enter your email address and quantity below and we will send you an alert when the item becomes available.

sks firing pin sticking

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Please visit us again.Log in or Sign up. Dec 23, 1. So I got my Albanian out of layaway today. Funny how they always look a little different in daylight then they do at the store. Looked a little rougher then I remembered.

sks firing pin sticking

In any case time for some serious cleaning. Thanks to YouTube I had it apart in just a couple of minutes. Hot water, carb cleaner, copper cleaner, Ballistol and everything else I had was used. Not too much trouble except with the bolt. Took me 45 min to get the firing pin retainer out. Hammer, soak, hammer, soak etc. Firing pin is stuck like it's welded in there. Push, pull, turn, hammer nothing worked. Soaked it in penetrating oil as I was cleaning the rest of the gun.

Barrel came out relatively shiney so that's good. Eventually just put everything back together again and everything runs smooth. Except the firing pin. I'm obviously not going to fill a mag and go shooting as is. Any tricks of the trade? Some pics:. Last edited by a moderator: Dec 26, Dec 23, 2.


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